Never Make Cakey Pancakes Again - Bon Appétit
Did I use too much baking powder, Puffy, cakey pancake disaster! We are going to get to the bottom of this. Pancakes, like most baking, are a giant science experiment, a chemical reaction made up of starch, protein, water, fats, binders, chemical leaveners, and heat. All of these things come together to create something really delicious—or something really horrible.
Don’t feel bad, we’ve all had our share of baking catastrophes. But, as with any science experiment, we observe, learn, and try again until we get it right. Without having seen the recipe and tasted the finish pancakes, it's hard for me to say exactly what happened and where you went wrong. But here are a few tips to help solve the cakey mystery (and any other pancake missteps you've experienced). Flour and liquid create the structure in any dough. Mixing the two together develops gluten, the protein that gives elasticity to dough.
When making bread, gluten is a good thing; it allows the bread to hold its structure and supports the formation of the gas bubbles created by the yeast. Without gluten, bread would not be able to rise. However, gluten in quick breads, pie crusts, cakes, and pancakes is not good.
You want these baked items to be soft and tender with a delicate crumb, and that means as little gluten as possible. Over-mixing pancake batter develops the gluten that will make the pancakes rubbery and tough. For light, fluffy pancakes, you want to mix just until the batter comes together—it's okay if there are still some lumps of flour.
Fat (melted butter) makes the pancakes rich and moist. Adding too much fat will make them seem more like pound cake; they'll have smaller bubbles and won't rise as much. On the other hand, too little fat will make them dry and crispy—almost cracker-like. With little gluten, pancakes rely on eggs to provide the additional structure necessary to hold the bubbles and allow the pancake to rise. The fat in the yolk also provides richness and flavor. Too much egg, however, will make the pancake dense and custard-like; not enough will make it drier and more biscuit-like.
Ricotta Pancakes with Honeycomb-Candy Butter. Baking powder and baking soda are the chemical leaveners typically used in pancakes. They are responsible for the bubbles in the batter, and for making the cakes light and fluffy. Baking powder (double acting) provides two rises: The first occurs when the baking powder comes into contact with a liquid, the second when it's exposed to heat. Too much baking powder will create a very puffy pancake with a chalky taste, while too little will make it flat and limp.
Baking soda rises only once when exposed to an acid (like buttermilk, sour cream, or yogurt). Baking soda also controls the browning of the batter in the pan. Not enough soda will result in a blonde, flat pancake. Too much will result in a tall, dark, soapy-tasting pancake. The Blueberry Blossom Pancake. Pancakes should be cooked on medium heat.
Cast iron griddles are best, but a wide heavy skillet with low sides will work too. Always make the first pancake as your test cake or “chef’s snack,” to make sure that you have the heat just right. Lightly brush the griddle with oil before you pour the batter (a third to half a cup per pancake is standard). Cook pancakes until bottoms are golden brown and bubbles are forming and bursting in the center, about three minutes. If the pancakes are getting too dark but the bubbles haven’t started to burst, lower the heat. If they are still blonde but the bubbles are bursting, increase the heat. Flip and cook until cooked through and other side of pancakes are golden brown, about two minutes longer.
I love to cook pancakes too. These turned out a little thin and floppy at first. I added about another 1/3 cup of flour and a pinch more baking soda and they turned out much better. I keep powdered buttermilk on hand and it does a realy good job. I put that in and use regular milk.
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