Flipping Out In Chicago On National Pancake Day

Finding a serviceable stack of pancakes in Chicago doesn’t require a lot of research or travel. For starters, there’s that ubiquitous chain that boasts of its international status. And any number of far less “worldly” breakfast spots will serve up some standard-issue hotcakes. But for pancake lovers who want to celebrate National Pancake Day in a more artisan way, there are a number of Chicago eateries ready to sate your pancake cravings. At Over Easy in Chicago’s Ravenswood neighborhood, a bit of trial and error was involved in developing the pancake batter, says co-owner Gwyneth Nordine.

Before opening in March 2006, Nordine and her husband, Jon Cignarale, went through a lot of batter before landing on a recipe the couple felt was light and fluffy enough - with just the right amount of sweetness. Making the perfect pancake, says Nordine, requires a bit of understanding of the science involved.

“It’s about chemistry and not just a flavor profile,” she says. One of the secrets, says Nordine, is using the correct leavening. “Baking soda reacts with acids. If you don’t have an acid like brown sugar or buttermilk in your pancakes, it won’t work if you use baking soda.” That’s where baking powder takes over.

Over Easy has four kinds of specialty pancakes on its menu. Blueberry Crunch is Nordine’s personal favorite. Another recipe that made it onto the Over Easy menu is one that Nordine says is a childhood favorite. As a kid, Nordine says she stared crumbling bacon over her pancakes until her mother finally said ‘How about if I do that for you, sweetheart,

’” After that, “my mom would always make two different batches one with bacon for me and one plain for my sister,” she says. At Batter & Berries in Lincoln Park, pancakes were part of the courting ritual for the restaurant’s husband-and-wife owners. Craig Richardson says going out for breakfast became a “hobby” when he was dating Tonya Reeves. “We went out and tried a lot of different restaurants in Chicago.

And one day she came home and said, ‘Hey, we should open a breakfast restaurant.’” Dr. Tanya Reeves-Richardson is now a family medicine physician in Chicago while her husband runs the restaurant they co-founded. The best seller is a “nice fluffy pancake” topped with berries to justify the eatery’s name. Richardson says they’re served with a maple butter that often replaces the syrup for many customers. Batter & Berries head chef Ken L. Polk also developed a gluten-free buckwheat pancake that he says required some “intense” research and development.

“It’s for people who want something heartier,” says Polk. As for making the perfect pancake, Polk gives the same advice that Nordine does: after combining the eggs and milk with the dry ingredients, don’t over mix! And then let the batter rest for 10 to 15 minutes before hitting the skillet.

From there, the creativity is up to the cook. And National Pancake Day can be any day you want it to be. Below, some simple pancake recipes. Mix the eggs, salt, vanilla, lemon zest, and flour. Whisk in the milk a bit at a time, and mix until very smooth.

Don't worry, the batter will be very smooth, a bit like crepes. Let rest for at least 15 min. In a cast-iron skillet, add about a teaspoon butter, and add just enough batter to cover the pan, swirling to cover. Flip when you start to see bubbles. Serve with whipped butter and lingonberries.

• 2 ½ t. In a large bowl sift together all dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, sugar, salt). Beat buttermilk, egg and vanilla until evenly combined. Mix wet ingredients into dry ingredients just until combined and smooth, being careful not to over mix. Let rest for 5 minutes. Working in small batches, pour melted butter onto griddle, and then using a ladle pour pancake batter in even circles, being careful to not allow cakes to touch.

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